RC Bodies: How to Cut, Paint, and Customize Your RC Car

The body is the face of your RC car. It's the first thing noticed on the track, what makes it unmistakable among twenty identical cars, the expression of your modeling personality. But the body isn't just aesthetics: a good paint job protects the polycarbonate, a precise cut ensures correct aerodynamics and clean assembly, and careful preparation makes the work last for seasons. Yet painting an RC body "in reverse," from the inside, with the right masking, is an art that intimidates many beginners.

This guide takes you step-by-step: from understanding the material (Lexan) to reference brands, from cutting with scissors to drilling, from the correct internal painting sequence to special effects like candy and pearl, up to decals, decal cutting, and final protection. By the end, you'll be able to transform a transparent shell into a spectacular and durable livery.

The Material: What is Lexan

RC bodies are not made of rigid plastic like static models: they are made of polycarbonate, commonly called Lexan (from the commercial name of GE/Sabic polycarbonate). It is a transparent, thin (typically 0.5-1 mm), flexible, and incredibly impact-resistant thermoplastic material. It is precisely this combination—lightness, flexibility, and elasticity—that makes it perfect for RC cars: in an impact, the body deforms and then returns to shape, rather than shattering.

The body is sold transparent, thermoformed into the desired shape, with a protective backing (an adhesive film, often bluish or transparent) on the outside that should be left on until the end to prevent scratches. The most important feature to understand: Lexan is painted from the inside. The paint is applied to the inside of the shell, so the outer surface remains protected by the polycarbonate itself, which acts as a shiny, resistant "glass" over the paint. It's a counterintuitive but brilliant method.

In summary: Lexan is flexible and resistant polycarbonate, painted from the inside, and maintains a protective film on the outside until assembly. Understanding this is the foundation of the entire process.

Body Brands

There is a thriving market for aftermarket bodies, with specialized brands that design shells optimized for aerodynamics, weight, and style. Knowing them helps you choose the right body for your chassis.

Protoform (PROTOform)

Among the most respected brands, part of the Pro-Line group, a reference for touring and pan cars on the track. Refined lines, excellent polycarbonate quality, extensive catalog of liveries and pre-cut masks. A Protoform touring body costs around 25-40 €.

Bittydesign

A highly appreciated Italian brand, very strong in 1:8 buggy and touring, with refined aerodynamic designs and excellent quality. Pride of "made in Italy" in the sector.

SWorkz

Manufacturer of chassis and bodies for 1:8, its bodies are designed for its own buggies but also used by those seeking competitive aerodynamics.

Yokomo

Historic Japanese brand, an absolute reference for drift and touring, with high-quality realistic scale bodies much loved in the RC drift world.

JConcepts

Dominant American brand in off-road (buggy, short course, truggy), with aggressive and innovative bodies, often at the top in off-road competitions.

Sweep Racing

Specialized in bodies and tires for racing, appreciated for high-performance aerodynamic solutions in 1:8 and 1:10.

Other important names include Pro-Line (off-road giant), Mon-Tech and Montech for touring. The choice depends on the category: for touring Protoform and Montech, for off-road JConcepts and Pro-Line, for drift Yokomo.

It's worth mentioning why it's better to invest in a branded body compared to an anonymous shell. Quality bodies use purer polycarbonate with calibrated thickness: they cut better, drill without cracking, and—most importantly—withstand many more impacts before getting damaged. Furthermore, serious brands study aerodynamics with track tests, and their shapes are not just aesthetic but a performance advantage: a well-designed touring body generates more downforce on the front or more stability in a straight line, depending on the philosophy. For off-road, the body profile influences how the air "supports" the vehicle when landing after a jump. Saving on the body often means ending up with a shell that cracks quickly and, once mounted, doesn't do what it should.

Body Types by Category

Each RC car category has dedicated bodies, designed for specific aerodynamic and mounting needs:

• Touring car (1:10). Replicas of touring cars and GTs, low and sleek, optimized for maximum aerodynamic grip at high speeds on smooth tracks.
• Buggy and truggy (1:8 and 1:10). High and flared shapes for off-road, with air intakes and profiles that manage airflow at lower speeds and on uneven terrain. Often paired with a rear wing.
• Crawler and scale. Realistic replicas of off-road vehicles and trucks (Jeep, Land Rover, pickup), with highly detailed scale features, mounted on crawlers that prioritize realism and climbing over speed.
• Drift. Scale bodies of Japanese sports cars and supercars, where realistic aesthetics are everything.

Cutting: Lexan Scissors

The body comes with an excess polycarbonate edge that needs to be trimmed following the printed trim lines. Openings for the wheels (wheel arches) and sometimes windows and air intakes are also needed. The tool of choice is curved Lexan scissors, with curved blades that allow you to follow the curves of the wheel arches without creating sharp angles.

Rules for clean cutting:

• Leave the outer backing on. Cut with the protective film still applied, to avoid scratching.
• Cut gradually. First a rough cut leaving a few millimeters of margin, then refine to the exact line. It's easier to remove material than to add it.
• Follow the curves. For wheel arches, use the curvature of the scissors, rotating the body, never forcing sharp angles that would create cracks.
• No sharp internal corners (90° angles). Every internal corner must be rounded: a sharp corner is a starting point for cracks from vibration and impact. Finish the edges with a fine file or sandpaper.

Tip: Edges finished with a light pass of fine sandpaper (400-600) not only prevent cracks but also make assembly safer and aesthetics more refined. Never leave sharp or jagged edges.

Drilling: Clips and Accessories

The body is attached to the chassis via body posts that pass through it and R-clips that lock it. The holes for the posts must be drilled precisely, as they determine the height and stance of the body. The ideal tool is a rotary punch/reamer for Lexan (body reamer), which creates clean, rounded holes by rotating it, without tearing the material like a drill bit would.

Procedure: mount the body on the chassis in the correct position, mark the post passage points from the outside (a marker or the post itself marks the spot), then drill with the reamer starting small and gradually enlarging to the correct diameter. Here too, the rule of clean edges applies: a clean, rounded hole does not crack. Other common openings are for the antenna, exhaust (in nitro cars), and cooling air intakes.

Internal Painting: The Correct Sequence

Here is the heart of the art. When painting from the inside, the application order is reversed compared to intuitive logic: what you want to see "in the foreground" on the outside must be painted first on the inside, because it will be the layer closest to the transparent polycarbonate. Subsequent layers end up "behind." It's like painting on glass and looking at it from the other side.

The typical sequence for a detailed livery, to be performed inside the clean and degreased body (never touch the inside with greasy fingers: grease prevents adhesion):

1. Details and lights. First, the small details that need to appear in the foreground: headlights, taillights, painted logos, fine details. These are masked and painted first.
2. Graphics and detail colors. The secondary colors of the livery (stripes, race numbers, colored details), applied with appropriate masking.
3. Masking. Between layers, mask with good quality adhesive tape and, for larger areas, with liquid mask or films, protecting already painted areas or those that need to remain transparent (windows, usually).
4. Main color. The dominant color of the body, applied after all details.
5. Backing. Finally, a layer of opaque backing, typically black, white, or silver. The backing is what makes the colors bright and opaque in light, preventing light from passing through and "fading" the livery. Without backing, colors appear transparent and dull.

Paint in light, multiple coats, allowing to dry between each pass, never a single thick coat (it will run and crack). Patience between layers is the key to a professional finish.

Tip: Painting windows with a transparent smoky color (tinted) or leaving them clear and applying window decals is a stylistic choice. If you want them transparent, mask them carefully before the main color and backing, otherwise they will disappear under the paint.

Lexan Paints: Which to Use

Caution: not all paints are suitable for Lexan. Specific polycarbonate paints are needed, formulated to remain elastic and adhere to the flexible material without cracking when the body deforms in impacts. A normal paint (for rigid plastic or metal) will crack and peel off at the first impact. Reference brands:

• Pactra. Historic brand of spray paints for Lexan, wide range of colors and finishes, widely used in racing.
• Tamiya PS. The PS line from Japanese Tamiya is the de facto standard: high-quality polycarbonate spray paints, brilliant colors, excellent coverage, vast range including metallics, fluorescents, and smoke. A PS can costs approximately 8-12 €.
  
• Createx. Line of airbrush paints, appreciated by those who paint with a compressor and airbrush to create effects, gradients, and complex liveries impossible with just a spray can.

Paints are applied by spray can for beginners and for large areas, or by airbrush for those who want maximum control, gradients, and special effects. To start, Tamiya PS spray cans are the easiest way to achieve excellent results.

Some practical rules with spray cans to avoid common problems: shake the can for a long time (at least a minute) to mix the pigment well; spray from a distance of 20-30 cm with continuous, parallel movements, never pointing fixedly at one spot (the paint will run); work in a dry environment at a mild temperature (cold and humidity cause "orange peel" and dullness); and apply multiple thin coats rather than one thick coat. For metallics, the layer must be as uniform as possible because any unevenness is very noticeable. If a paint tends not to cover (typical of yellows and reds on a dark background), wait for it to dry and apply a second coat: patience between layers is what makes the difference between an amateur and a professional result.

Special Effects: Candy, Pearl, and Gradient

Once basic painting is mastered, the world of effects that make a livery extraordinary opens up:

• Candy. Transparent translucent colors applied over a metallic base (usually silver or chrome). Light passes through the candy, bounces off the underlying metal, and creates that luminous, "candy-like" depth typical of custom cars. It's about the number of coats: more candy, darker and deeper the color.
• Pearl. Paints with pearlescent pigments that change reflection with the angle of light, creating an elegant iridescent effect.
• Gradient. Gradual transition from one color to another, achieved with an airbrush by modulating pressure and distance. It's the "fade" effect that gives dynamism to the livery. Requires practice with an airbrush.

These effects, especially candy and gradient, are best achieved with an airbrush, but there are also spray cans of metallic bases and transparent candy that allow you to get close to the result without a compressor.

Another highly requested effect is the two-tone fade, where two colors blend in a transition zone: this is achieved by first painting the two solid colors at the ends and then blending them into each other in the central area with light, overlapping passes. For replica liveries of real cars, however, fidelity often comes from pre-cut decals coordinated with the body mask. In any case, before embarking on a complex livery on a new body, it's worth practicing on scrap Lexan pieces: testing coverage, drying, and effect rendering on a sample avoids unpleasant surprises on the good piece.

Decals, Wing Stickers, and Decal Cutting

Painting is only half of the aesthetic work: decals complete the livery with race numbers, sponsors, details, and finishes. Many bodies are sold with a sheet of pre-printed, coordinated decals. Wing stickers decorate the rear wing, often a strong visual element.

For those who want unique customizations, there is decal cutting with a cutting plotter: a plotter (like those for cardstock and vinyl) cuts custom vinyl decals, allowing you to create personalized graphics, lettering, numbers, and logos. This is the professional method for exclusive liveries and for those managing small productions. Alternatively, printable paper decals for inkjet/laser printers allow photographic graphics to be applied wet or as stickers.

Tip: Apply decals to the outside of the body only after removing the protective backing, on a perfectly clean and degreased surface. Work from the center outwards to avoid air bubbles, and use a soft cloth to press.

Paint Protection: Backing Paper and Clear Coat

The internal paint is already protected by the polycarbonate itself on the outside: this is the great advantage of the method. But there are additional precautions to make the work last:

• Internal backing paper. After painting the inside, many modelers apply a film or protective spray to the painted inner side, to protect the paint from rubbing against mechanics and from internal humidity.
• Clear coat. A layer of clear paint over the internal backing further seals and protects the paint job.
• Leave the outer backing on until the end. The outer protective film should only be removed at the very last, before assembly and decal application, to avoid scratches during processing.

Assembly and Adjustment

With the body painted, trimmed, and decorated, assembly remains. The body is attached to the body posts with R-clips (or magnetic/quick-release systems in advanced models). The mounting height affects the center of gravity and aerodynamics: too high raises the center of gravity, too low can cause the wheels to rub. In track models, the body position and rear wing angle are setup parameters that affect aerodynamic grip. Always check that the body does not touch the tires when the suspension compresses and that the wheel arch openings allow free movement.

Conclusion

Painting an RC body is one of the most creative and rewarding moments of the hobby. The secret lies in respecting the method: clean cutting without sharp edges, clean holes, degreasing the inside, and especially the correct internal painting sequence—details, masking, main color, opaque backing. Use only Lexan paints like Tamiya PS, work in light, multiple coats, and be patient between layers.

Once you've gained confidence, you can dare with candy, pearl, airbrushed gradients, and custom plotter decals, creating truly unique liveries. A well-made body not only makes your car unmistakable on the track but also protects the polycarbonate and lasts for seasons. Take your time, experiment, and transform every transparent shell into a small masterpiece on four wheels.